Ri Kynjai

54 km from Shillong, Cherrapunjee, the capital of the British till 1874 affords an astounding perspective on the essence of Meghalaya, ‘The Abode of Clouds’. Stemming from its repute as one of the world’s wettest regions, Cherrapunjee is a kaleidoscope of winding roads that run through endless expanses of green fields only to disappear into clouds of mist; plunging waterfalls that merge into green pools hundreds of feet underneath, and a heritage that harkens back to the days of the British Raj.

Viewpoints like Mawkdok, halfway between Shillong and Cherrapunjee are an excellent vantage point where within the range of one’s vision, the green hills and plateaus of Cherrapunjee drop to give way to the rolling plains and paddy fields of Bangladesh. Riat Mawiew, the Grand Canyon of Cherrapunjee is the ultimate treat for the nature lover. Waterfalls like Kynrem Falls, Nohkalikai, Noh Sngi Thiang Falls and Dain Thlen Falls provide the high points of a visit to Cherrapunjee.

Adding to this backdrop of awe-inspiring display of nature at its best are the ruins, monoliths and centuries-old architecture that is testimony to the British, Welsh and rich local heritage. Obelisks that still stand in their old glory mark the road at regular intervals. At Nongsawlia, stands the church that was built shortly after the first church in the Northeast was destroyed in the great earthquake of 1897. This church and the Thomas Jones School of Mission and Evangelism nearby at Saitsohpen is verification of the years that the missionary Rev. Thomas Jones of the Welsh Calvinistic Mission spent here in Cherrapunjee. This was the same persona who is given the credit for giving the Khasi a written form of their language.

The Rama Krishna Mission also has an establishment in Cherrapunjee, and houses a museum on its premises. One can also shop to one’s content from the Sohra Market where oranges and orange honey, Cherrapunjee’s claim to fame, and an intoxicating variety of local products are likewise available.

At Saitsohpen, a detour leads to The Green Rock Ranch, an interesting conglomeration of a horse-riding corral, an archery range, acres of green pasture land, a coffee-shop, a lounge amidst old ruins, a grove and a nature trail that leads to a view-point from where is visible an endless panorama of awe-inspiring ranges of blue hills and deep gorges.
On the drive to Mawsmai, one can perceive the obelisk that stands as a memorial to David Scott, Agent to the Governor General on the North-eastern Frontier of Bengal. The Mawsmai Village, at around a 10 minute drive from the Sohra Market is home to the Mawsmai Cave or Krem Mawsmai. A paved path leads to the main entrance. Venture through the fully-lighted cave to discover the astounding formations of stalagmites and stalactites that have acquired their present contours over the course of thousands of years. This cave with 5 river passages is one of the longest in the Sub-continent.

Khoh Ramhah or the Pillar Rock is another must-visit destination in Cherrapunjee. It presents an incredible spectacle: that of a massive rock-formation in the shape of a giant cone. As the legend goes, this was the fossilized cone-shaped basket of an evil giant. The viewpoint nearby adds to the allure of this place and is the ultimate station to enjoy the glories of the sunset, the colors oscillating as the sun sets simultaneously over Khoh Ramhah and the plains of Sylhet.

Cherrapunjee is endowed with local shops and the Halari Restaurant that ensures no dearth of refreshments.
A visit to Cherrapunjee and to experience all it has to offer is a must. Because it’s one of the few places on earth where history and time stand frozen amidst beauty from every point of view.

The renowned sacred forests of Meghalaya located in Mawphlang, a half-hour’s drive from Shillong is also designated the name ‘Nature’s own museum’. A walk through the forest is a spellbinding encounter not just with nature, but rather one is left with the consciousness of being in close communion with the divine, for whom the sacred grove is abode.
Mushrooms of every color and kind and a huge variety of flowers seem to abound in every possible corner and it is easy to see why this forest has been christened ‘Nature’s Own museum’.

On the way back from Mawphlang, it is commonplace to spot the blacksmiths of Mylliem at work. This is definitely worth closer scrutiny, because the iron industry of the Khasi Hills has been recognized as having been in existence since time immemorial.

It is incredible to watch the hills, cascading waterfalls and plunging gorges of Mawsynram unfold like a pop-up storybook after just around a 1 hr drive from Shillong. Even more incredible is how the people of Mawsynram live as one with the land.
Villages lie in small clusters at the bottom of the jungle-covered hills, inaccessible to the outside world except by steep mountain trails that wind through thick tropical forests with an amazing bio-diversity.

Trekking to villages Kenmysnsaw and Kenbah is a strenuous 2-hour affair that would prove to be an indomitable challenge for the first-timer in the beginning. However, the lush green orange and grapefruit orchards and the beautiful flora and fauna throughout the hike makes it an experience that remains unforgotten. Mawsynram is known for having the highest recorded rainfall in the world, and lives up to its repute by surprising one with quick showers at the most unexpected instances.

The sound of rushing waters greets the visitor. The sight of clothes drying on rocks as a stream rushes past and a cluster of little houses with more clothes drying on the roofs tell the visitor he’s arrived. A hanging wire bridge takes one across the river and into the village. Kenmynsaw and Kenbah, which lie next to each other, are both craft villages. The people literally live off the land, using the cane and bamboo of the jungles to craft beautifully finished products.

The village of Nartiang confirms the fact that Meghalaya is where time stands still, while everything else moves forward. Nartiang, 65 kms east of Shillong was the summer capital of the Jaintia kings.
The Durga Temple at Nartiang stands today as verification of the Hindu heritage of the Jaintia Kingdom, which dates back to about 1446 A.D. The temple is maintained by a family of priests originally from Ujjain. A short walk away lies the Shiv Temple. Also to be seen are the remnants of the Summer Palace on a hill about 2 km from the Nartiang market. The market of Nartiang in itself has a legend connected to its history, a legend that links it to the huge collection of monoliths near it. It is said that the legendary hero, U Mar Phalyngki carried a large slab from the Raliang market place to Nartiang, taking on a wager from his mother-in-law.

It is said that the market-place was then transferred to Nartiang to commemorate this extraordinary feat.
All the monoliths were erected by the villagers of Nartiang “in commemoration of glorious events of the Jaintia Kings and the great hero Mar Phalanki- 1500-1835 A.D.”—as a marble slab at the entrance declares.

En route to Nartiang is the Thadlaskein Lake, a man-made lake which legend maintains was dug by a renegade chieftain Sajar Nagli and his followers with the end of their bows before he fled the kingdom. As a matter of fact, it has recently been renamed the Sajar Nagli Lake. Boating on the Sajar Nagli Lake in the evening, with the wind blowing in your hair and the occasional migratory bird skimming the lake as it fliespast is the perfect way to say goodbye to Nartiang.

The cultural center of the Khyrim Syiemship, Smit-Nongkrem manifests itself within half an hour from
Shillong.The house of the local priest—the ‘Lyngdoh’ as he is known is a study in itself.

A stone’s throw away is located the village brewery, the only legal ‘bar’ in the Kingdom of Khyrim. At Smit, resides the ‘Iing Sad’, the royal abode of the Syiem Sad, Queen Mother or High Priestess of Hima Khyrim, who is the custodian of the indigenous religion. From Smit, the road takes one past terraced green rows of vegetation and coniferous trees that flank the way past the village of Thangsniang. The hills by the road-side are covered with scattered growth of sweet wild berries, of which the traveler can take a sample. The sleepy little settlement of Nongkynrih, illustrious for its bows and arrows (archery being a traditional pastime and sport in Meghalaya) comes next. After high tea at Nongkynrih, the road takes one past even more peculiar sights, like men selling lengths of the celebrated Laitlyngkot sausages.

Pynnursla is the next stop and at this juncture, this is the place to replenish on camera film and other necessities. The next destination is Mawlynnong.

Mawlynnong is best described as a veritable tropical paradise and a nature lover’s dream destination. One can spend a holiday at Mawlynnong at the Village Guest House, a delightful little abode built in traditional style with a bamboo-and-cane interior.

Umiam Lake or ‘Barapani’ as it is locally known is the first presage to the visitor that heralds his arrival in Shillong, ‘the Abode of Clouds’. Spread over a large area encompassing several square kilometers, its azure waters sparkling in the sun, it is a treat for the eyes.

Stretches of pine-covered land interpose, forming little isles in the tranquil, blue-green waters of the lake. In recent years, the Umiam Lake has become one of the most popular destinations for outings. The Water Sports Complex which consists of the Orchid Lake Resort and the Nehru Park, provides a wide choice of thrilling water sports and other activities, from kayaking and water-skiing for the brave-hearted to water-cycling and boating for the less adventurous.

The ‘Lum Soh Petbneng’, the most sacrosanct peak in Khasi tradition, and similarly the ‘Lumdiengie’ are only a few kilometers away from
Ri Kynjai, and trekking to these peaks makes for an experience you won’t forget.